Z Notes Blog by Jim Zumwalt
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Urban Hiking Along Nikko Onari Michi

Sept. 30 - Being such an old city, Tokyo offers hidden treasures in unexpected places. Recently I explored the route along the old Nikko Onari road from Tokyo University's Hongo Campus to Oji station.

Ginko trees along the sidewalk outside the Tokyo University campus provided welcome shade on a hot day. The character of this commercial part of old Edo is still visible. I detoured down a bustling shopping street. Children played on the street; chatting grandmothers enjoyed the outdoor air on a bench; and mothers with small children rode bicycles loaded with groceries. Friendly shopkeepers urged me to purchase their fresh fruit, or to rest over a cup of iced coffee.

Golden gargoyles and a placid Buddha at one of the temples

As I continued my walk further north, the character of the city landscape changed. This area of old Edo had been filled with larger and wealthy residences. I stopped at Rikugien, one of my favorite Japanese-style gardens. I felt lucky that this garden, once owned by a wealthy merchant, is now open to the public. I also visited the Old Furukawa residence and garden. In the past I have taken many American guests to both gardens, and they always enjoy the exquisite landscapes.

A stately mansion right in the park

Continuing farther north, I saw a small hill in the very middle of a busy four-lane street. A sign explained that this was the Nishigahara "One Li Mound," built by the shogun to mark the distance along this road. In the past, many roads leading out of the capital were marked in such a manner, but today only the Nishigahara One Li Mound survives. As I crossed the street to climb to the top, I wondered what the shogun would think if he could see the many cars and buses racing by on this road today.

Along the way I stopped at many other small temples and shrines. My favorite is the O-inari Shrine on top of a small hill near Oji Station. This shrine was festooned with colorful banners and numerous stone statues of the fox god. As I descended this hill toward my destination at Oji Station, I reflected on the diverse communities along this old historic route.

Until next time,

Jim

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