July 30 - Shirakawa village becomes very quiet in the evenings. After 4 p.m. when the tour buses depart, we can hear birds and insects clearly. Echoes reverberate against the steep forested hillside as a priest rings the bronze temple bell, which is housed in a bell tower protected by a straw roof. This happens at 5 p.m.

Our innkeeper suggested we go out to see fireflies after dark. She explained that catching fireflies was among her favorite activities as a small girl growing up in this isolated village with no television. In those days, thousands of fireflies would flit about over the many rice paddies and canals that crisscrossed the village.

The population of fireflies in Shirakawa village, she explained, is now making a comeback after years of decline due to heavy use of agricultural chemicals on the rice paddies and vegetable plots. Farmers are now using more environmentally friendly production methods to maintain harmony with nature.

Ann and I later explored a riverbank and marveled at the thousands upon thousands of fireflies that flew around in the night sky. They were much brighter than the distant stars. With the voices of frogs for accompaniment, the fireflies seemed to be enjoying the cool evening breezes as much as we were.

Until next time,

Jim